
Hey all,
Granada was founded in 1524 by the Spanish explorer Francisco Hernández de Córdoba, who named Granada after the ancient Spanish city Granada. Granada, along with Antigua, Guatemala, was often recognized as the capitol of Central America, due to its location along Lake Nicaragua and easy access to central trade routes.
Granada has historically been a place of conflict in Central America. It has faced invasions by both the French and the English and is where the American William Walker tried to assert his monarchy of all of Central America. At one point, the entire city was burned to the ground, but was later rebuilt.
Granada and Leon, throughout the 19th century, battled for the nation’s capitolship. Leon was favored by the Liberals and Granada by the Conservatives. Eventually, the capitol was established between the two cities in the significantly less beautiful Managua.
Today, as I see it, Granada is still as beautiful as it was a couple of hundred of years ago when the city was rebuilt. It is the type of city that I have become more accustomed to whilst in Central America. There is a sprawling central park, amazing market, and gigantic main street leading to the shoreline of Lake Nicaragua. The shoreline, however, is littered with discarded trash and the water is polluted to a muddy brown color.
The town square houses street vendors, monuments to people long since dead, and, in true colonial fashion, horse drawn carriages. I wish I would have ridden one. There is, however, always nest time
Walking around Friday night, I was struck by the absolute beauty of the place. Then, I walked through the empty market, past someone who had long since passed out, snoring, sprawled atop an empty market booth. I then remembered that I was, in fact, still in the poorest country in Central America.
I was struck by the sheer amount of homeless in Granada. They were sleeping in the streets, on the sidewalks, and in the entrances of store fronts.
Joselyn, the girl I was traveling with, and I decided to cut the trip short and return Saturday night. She had not brought any shoes so hiking was ruled out and I had somehow forgotten my debit card, so I was strapped for cash. It was our first weekend traveling. Give us a break, were allowed to make mistakes.
The bus ride home might have been the most horrific experience of my short life. The bus from Managua, where we caught our connection, and Estelí was packed from wall to wall. I did not understand how they could possibly still be allowing people onto the bus. I was already squeezed into a seat made for three normal sized people. Unfortunately, the man who was sitting in the window seat thought it was his god given right to take up a seat and a half. Then, a woman who looked much too young to have a five year old, put her five year old on my headrest. His ass cheeks straddled my headrest while his legs dangled into the aisle. So, here I was crunched into a semi-fetal position, sweating my but off in the 95 degree weather (to the second power with all the damn people on the bus), surrounded by people who have not had the benefit of a shower in a while. How could things get worse?
That is when the nether-region-itcher came into my life. This man apparently had some sort of un-satisfy-able itch in his pants. His hand was just drawn to his private parts. What’s worse is he felt the need to place his package directly in front of my face. Someone just kill me. There might have been tears.
After about three hours on the bus, taking extreme back routes to drop people off (I learned my lesson--expresses from now on), the bus had cleared out. The weather went from extreme to mild. I got a window seat. I could breathe again. We drove through the mountains on the way home and I saw some of what I have been missing, green. So much green. Clouds swirled in the sky, overcastting the sun. The sun set orange and pink. It turned into a day that reminds you that even the simpliest things can hold the most beauty—a little girl playing hide-and-seek with you over her chair, hanging your head out the window and allowing the clean air to blow through your hair, or giving 5 Córdoba’s to a man only charging one Cordoba for a bag of water, making his day.
In the end, I am reminded that I believe in something. Maybe something foolish or naïve, but something none the less—that any difference, no matter how small, is worth making.
Patrick